(This is) Pretty simple and not too hard to screw up. Remove the cover of the master cylinder you are working on and suck out most of the fluid with a turkey baster.  When pushing in the pistons, do it slowly or you will spray brake fluid all over the place.

I usually remove the front caliper since it is easy to do.  Use a wide flat blade screwdriver inserted between the pads and twist to force the pistons back in.  Then remove the pads.  Insert new pads, replace the pad pins and put the caliper back in place.  I have found that using a screwdriver about the same thickness as the rotor to keep the pads separated makes it easier to get the pins back in.  Use a torque wrench to get the pins and mounting bolts tight.

On the rear I don't remove the caliper since it means taking the rear axel out.  I take the pins out and then gently use a flat blade screwdriver between the ends of the pads and then between the rotor and the pads to force the pistons back in.  Use care when leveraging against the rotor.  You don't want to scar it.  It sounds scarier than it really is.  Just be gentle.  Slip in the new pads and put the pins back in using a torque wrench (unless you have a calibrated arm!).

Refill the fluid in the reservoir and pump the brake a few times.  Add fluid to fill and pump them again.  Make sure that the brake has a solid feel.  Unless you disconnected one of the lines or somehow got some air in the system no bleeding should be necessary.

For the first time, figure about 1/2 hour per caliper.  After you have done it a couple of time it goes down to about 15 min per caliper.

Hope this helps.  One of the easier jobs to do yourself and save a lot of bucks over what the dealer charges.

Ride Safe and Stay Upright

Myron Tuttle - Santa Clara, CA - USA